This Spring/Summer 2023, the highly anticipated Milan Menswear Week was all about new silhouettes, new accessories and a throwback to some of our favorite fashion canons. We’ve rounded up some of the main highlights below.
Here’s our pick of the best menswear from Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023
Exposed belly of FendiWe will miss the spring of 2022. Looking through the looks from Silvia Venturini’s latest collection, one would assume she’s ventured beyond the aesthetic she debuted last year. Such an assumption would be wrong. Yes, spring 2023 was inspired by ’90s Americana, and – yes – there were no cropped tops this time around, yet the languid triangles of skin peeking from under shirts, coats and blazers, tied the new season perfectly into its latest iteration. What stood out was the abundance of denim – or what looked like denim, at least. A blue fur jacket with frayed inserts and a long coat with exaggerated pockets made entirely of shaved mink (!) are perfect examples. At the same time, what appeared to be khaki pants was actually super thin Nappa leather pants.
In Etro’s Spring 2023 menswear collection, Kean Etro transformed his models into beach nymphs. It’s the hot summer we’ve been waiting for. Majestic kimonos that skim the ground rub shoulders with caftans, low-cut cardigans and wide open jackets, each evoking delicate, almost ritualistic poetics. There were also satin leggings and tiny speedos with tucked-in brocade blouses. While such a style choice may not have been favored by fashion critics residing on Twitter, this author found the look quite invigorating. Etro’s beloved parsley hasn’t dominated this season, passing the torch from classic floral prints to Russian art nouveau.
It’s always tempting to spot and spot the little aesthetic choices that transpire the evolution of a given brand from one collection to the next. Dissecting Prada’s Spring 2023 men’s collection is perhaps the closest this author has come to becoming an evolutionary biologist. Since last year, shorts have been seen paired with striped knits, a real novelty, however, were gingham coats (sometimes layered under leather) and shirts (sometimes without buttons). Another archetype of the shows was of course the man in a suit – elegant, macabre, tasteful – made in the best traditions of the Maison.
Jeremy Scott’s first-ever all-male show since his appointment as creative director of Moschino mixed all the things we associate with the house, namely: fluidity, color, kink and artistry. The Spring 2023 collection was inspired by the work of American artist Tomy Viramontes – the colorful outlines of pleats on sweatshirts, bomber jackets and denim vests bring an inextricable twist to menswear staples – from best possible way. The piece de resistance was, by far, Look 12 – yellow denim jacket and matching pants, styled with a box pleated latex skirt, gloves, mid-calf boots and a baseball cap. Perfect for a Sunday at church.